HOW EQUESTRIAN STYLE INSPIRED A LINE OF CHIC, CANADIAN-MADE HANDBAGS
Story by Matt R. Loney
Photos provided by 442 McAdam
If there was any doubt that Toronto harbours some of the best up-and-coming fashion talent look no further than designer Sarah Shell, whose line of 442 McAdam handbags bring a uniquely Canadian perspective to this well-established accessory. Mixing equestrian regality with vintage detailing, her bags have prompted a flood of celebrity endorsements. Yet Calgary-born Shell remains grounded in her mission to provide Canadian-made luxury to her band of loyal followers. And no wonder – Shell’s knowledge of the industry and business acumen have spawned a brand that is instantly recognizable. Always on-trend, always chic, Shell herself is the epitome of easy-going bohemian crossed with sexy city girl who has it all – let’s just say it – in the bag.
You studied fashion at Parson’s New School for Design in New York and you tested the waters with garment design at Gucci and Club Monaco. What attracted you to handbag design specifically?
At Club Monaco I had my first experience observing the process of accessory design, but it was at Gucci where I gained a true appreciation for quality leather accessories. Quality, according to Gucci North America, includes the longevity of the product itself, the timelessness of the design, and the high level of customer service and retention associated with the brand. This inspired me.
I read that part of the inspiration for your designs came from hunting rifles. Can you fill us in on the details, and also what other strange places you’ve looked for inspiration?
Absolutely. Before launching 442 McAdam I was on a research project for a management consulting firm interested in an element of the fashion industry. Through this research I found myself in an outdoor sports department where I discovered these beautiful and intricately designed leather rifle slings. I found the use of such a beautiful product unfortunate. I purchased one and made my first attempt at constructing a handbag, applying the sling as the strap. I have always found it difficult to find a bag that appeals to my sense of style, and the rustic, vintage, and rich detailing to the sling was what I wanted my bag to accomplish.
Being a rider myself, I have always loved the richness and timelessness of the equestrian world. The colors are deep, the silhouettes beautifully contour the subject, and the textures are thick and rugged, meant for heavy usage and aging gracefully. The equestrian aesthetic is a constant inspiration for me in my designs of 442 McAdam bags.
As a business woman in fashion, what have been your major challenges?
When I returned to Canada my education and work experience in fashion garnered me respect in the industry. However, I look young and innocent and in a no-nonsense industry like fashion, that can be taken advantage of. I learned early in my career in the industry that this is no place for the weak and hesitant, and learned to present myself accordingly. Returning to Canada to launch 442 McAdam had its pros and cons. On the positive side, the industry truly embraces their own. The media is incredibly supportive to emerging talent and the customers are both appreciative of Canadian brands and are vocal about the products they like. The challenge of being a Canadian brand, however, is the lack of national resources. Designers have to source the majority of their fabrics and notions from America or overseas so the manufacturing industry here has become incredibly sparse. The lack of competition in these areas add cost to the companies and make it difficult for us to invest back into a local economy that is almost non-existent in fashion. In addition, the Canadian government does not have a support system for those in the fashion industry, fueling our difficulty in staying loyal despite our desire to do so.
Part of the criticism facing the fashion industry is how quickly everything changes. In many ways styles can become obsolete more quickly than technology. How do you balance being trendy and relevant with designing something that is timeless or classic?
This is indeed a tricky line to walk, but it is the definition of fashion. The importance is finding an equation and improving on it. A luxury brand wants to project a sense of excitement in order to gain the attention of the customers, but what distinguishes a luxury brand from a more commercial brand is in fact the timeless, practical and quality details. 442 McAdam handbags incorporate qualities that are important to our customers. She wants a piece that makes a statement. Timeless shapes are updated with in-season and on-trend subtleties in color, texture, and detail. A luxury handbags is a product that should not have an expiration date.
The last decade has seen some major shifts: 9/11 and the 2008 economic crisis specifically. How has the role fashion plays in our society changed since you started out? Are these shifts reflected in your designs?
My dad jokes about how my official launch party for 442 McAdam was held on one of the darkest days in the economic downturn. My response is that means there is no way to go but up! 9/11 had a huge influence on the people of New York City; it put things in to perspective, the first of which is our family, the last of which is our material possessions. The fashion industry of course took a hit. As it should have. Let’s not kid ourselves, this industry is built around material values.
While the luxury end of the fashion industry was less affected by the economic downturn than the commercial end, there was absolutely a shift in the buying habits of customers of luxury goods. This shift was a little delayed as compared to the response by the commercial fashion industry. A greater emphasis was placed on quality, longevity, and practicality, and less on quantity and trendiness. This shift worked in the favor of 442 McAdam since these were elements we upheld from the beginning. We did focus more on the practicality aspect of our designs. Dual-usage bags (day-to-night, multiple carrying options), a greater interior organization component, and broadening our selection to include a selection in the lower price-bracket of the luxury handbag continuum, were some additions we made to the design process.
You’ve had a lot of success with tons of celebrities seen sporting 442 McAdam bags. Who has worn one and whose endorsement has meant the most to your personally?
We are thrilled with the celebrity response to our handbags. Katy Perry, Miley Cyrus, Taylor Momsen, Vincent Gallo, Sarah Taylor and Leighton Meester have all got their hands on a 442 McAdam. Fefe Dobson, Tanya Kim and Jessi Cruikshank are celebrities whose support in 442 McAdam has meant the most to me on a personal level. These are a group of beautiful women who I have looked up to for years and have been so proud of as successful and talented Canadians. I have met them all, and am amazed by their modesty, despite their accomplishments, and honored by their confidence in 442 McAdam.
What is your ultimate definition of beauty?
Confidence and intelligence, and an appreciation for people who surround and support us.
Do you think Toronto has a sense of style that differs from say, Calgary where you’re from, or Vancouver? Also, how does Toronto fit into the fashion industry as a whole? Can we play with the big leagues?
Yes, I do see different influences in the sense of style between cities. The greatest difference I see is in the risks people are willing to take with their style. I think cities typically have stereotypical styles that are influenced by the different lifestyles within the cities. I have seen stores fail in Calgary that would be huge successes in Toronto and vice-versa, which is more a statement of the environment then anything else. With Nenshi in power in Calgary and Ford somehow running Toronto, it is clear that the political arena no longer dictates our fashion choices. I don’t think there is a right or wrong to fashion (I lie, there are definitely some wrongs!) but I applaud those who take risks and those who stay true to themselves.
In terms of the Canadian fashion industry as a whole, I think we have some phenomenal talent across the country, and the presence of talent from the West really gets me excited. I attend fashion week shows to support my friends, and I was so proud this last season to be drowning in show invites. I used to be able to pinpoint the work of Canadian fashion designers – not in a good way. But throughout the last decade I’ve seen our design mature to an internationally competitive level. We are breaking new ground in the North American and overseas markets. Some Canadian brands, like LINE Knitwear, MICHI athletic wear, Jay Godfrey women’s wear, Pajar boots, Canada Goose and Mackage coats are truly my favorites, and it is coincidental that they are Canadian. My eyeglass frames, as I recently found out, are even Canadian. I think we already play in the big leagues, we are just a mix of modest and ignorant to how much of a role we already have.
What’s the ideal outfit you envision paired with one of your bags?
The great thing about 442 McAdam bags is the breadth of style they can be applied to – from elegant and professional, to hipster vintage.
In terms of my personal style, I envision the following with any 442 McAdam oversized bag for the Fall season: An oversized t-shirt layered with a fitted leather jacket, high-rise ankle length pants with some wedged booties or combat boots. And of course, a fedora!
For the Spring/Summer, I’m a sucker for a simple, airy, patterned dress, some flip-flops, and a cropped jean jacket with one of our small spaghetti strap cross-body purses.
