A LOOK BACK AND FORWARD WITH ROCK & ROLL’S BEST KEPT SECRET
Story by Odessa Paloma Parker
Photographed by Arline Malakian
Styling: Alexis Honce (Plutino Group)
Hair & makeup: Paul Venoit
Models: John & Monika (Push Creative Management/NAM); Kyla (Elite Model Management); Rochelle (Next Models)
The battle between good and evil is all around us, every day. Todd Lynn tackles the concept through his delectable RTW collections for men and women; sinewy lines, dramatic shapes and elements like metal and reptile skins combine for S/S 2011 to create the most chic hybrid of style. Here he talks to Plaid about his passion for rock ‘n’ roll, how The Bible influences his work, and what it’s like to see his past and present collections collide.
Can you tell me a bit about your education in design, and how you got started designing for a celebrity clientele?
I studied on the BA at Ryerson in Canada, and soon after graduating started working with celebrities, most often through music videos.
I then decided to move to London to study on the famous MA program at Central St. Martins. Once again after graduating I was designing for rock stars in Europe. It’s a small world, that land of music, so it was pretty easy to get back into it over here. Throughout all of my work within the music industry I was always working in the fashion industry as well. It’s important that the work I do with musicians has direct, relevant links to fashion. After all, that’s what they want as well.
Why did you decide to become a fashion designer?
I had originally wanted to be an actor, but after I worked on a couple of jobs I realized how much waiting around there was in the job. I then started working in the design departments, mainly set design. That quickly lead to costume design and, so I guess, a natural progression into fashion. I always used to make things when I was young and once I got into fashion, I started making myself leather jackets.
On your website, you’re noted as “Rock and Roll’s best kept secret”. What is it about the genre, and rock stars, that inspire you?
It’s quite simple. We all look at rock stars and admire that they seem real. They’re cool just because they are. They aren’t supposed to be playing a character (that’s what actors do). And I truly believe that everyone at one time or another would love to be a rock star. I am inspired by them because they produce art that inexplicably changes our moods.
Who are your musical style icons?
I have many so it’s difficult to put it down to just a few. I think that anyone who pushes boundaries and uses clothing as part of their image deserves my respect. Artists like David Bowie, Bjork, The Sex Pistols, for a start.
How do your collaborations with your bespoke clients usually begin? Do they come to you with ideas, or do you present them?
I’ve been lucky that the musicians approach me. Then I’ll submit the designs based on a brief of what the project is. Sometimes they have initial ideas like a colour or material or just references that I start with, which often speeds up the process as there usually isn’t a lot of time to complete the project.
Why did you decide to make the move to creating pieces for the public? How does your design process and inspiration differ between your different clients?
I guess I decided to have my own label because the people around me wanted to wear the pieces that I was designing for musicians. The process doesn’t start differently. I guess the main difference is that the pieces need to be produced in higher numbers, so by buying my stuff in the shops, you get a piece of what those rockers get.
Your pieces are sold online on net-a-porter.com. How has online retail changed your fan base and your business?
Online retailing has brought fashion to those who aren’t able to get it. Either because they don’t have time or they live in a part of the world that doesn’t sell their favourite label, or doesn’t stock a particular style that they want. I’ve had customers discover my work for the first time online. It’s great on so many levels.
Your S/S 2011 collection is called Genesis Redux. What does that concept mean to you?
The concept started when I read about how scientists had created ‘life’ in a laboratory and how all of the science fiction movies that we used to watch as kids could one day actually not be fiction, but reality. But as with everything, technology always has a dark side to be weary of. So as good for mankind this type of discovery is, it will ultimately be used for evil. Sad, but true.
In turn, your F/W 2011 collection is Revelation Revolution; do Biblical/historical themes factor in your design ideas/inspiration often, or are the names just coincidental?
Absolutely, biblical themes influence my work. We seem to be surrounded by it all the time. With all the shit that’s happening in the world, god seem to turn up all the time. That means something different to everyone. I also had a show called Di Meliora, which translated from Latin means ‘Heaven send us better times’… and is still relevant.
There are a couple of pieces in your current collection that feature reflective detailing; why did you decide to incorporate that element?
The mixture of materials had to do with the idea that with these new un-human ‘creatures’ would come new hybrids. There was reptile skin and metal as accents. They were even combined together.
The pieces featured in the story accompanying this interview are a retrospective of your work. What do you think/feel when you see these pieces now?
I think that it’s always overwhelming when you see so many pieces all together like that. I’m always thinking about the next show, and so I often don’t think of all those past pieces, so it’s nice to see things all together like that, kind of a package of what I hope were hits.
I saw your limited edition flask on your website; can you tell me a bit about how that collaboration with Chivas came to be? Any other collaborations on the horizon?
I work with Linda Farrow on a sunglasses collaboration, which is fun. You can get them on their website. And I work with jewellery designer extraordinaire Shaun Leane on pieces for the show. Some pieces are available to buy as well. We had dresses on Net-A-Porter this season but they have sold out…
What would a dream collaboration (client) be for you?
I get asked this all the time and the truth is it changes daily. I like to design for the woman who takes charge of what she wears, when she wants to wear it and where she wants to wear it.
Can you describe a “typical” day in your life?
I get up early, I finish late and start it all again the next day…
