LACE IS NO LIGHTWEIGHT WHEN IT COMES TO THIS LABEL
Story by Cindy Lemus
Photos provided by Tamara Bavdek
Tamara Bavdek of This Ilk creates bold statement pieces with none other than the lightest, most delicate of fabrics – lace. With an industrial design background and a love of fashion photography, her passion for design and style shines through her intricate and individualized work. Plaid caught up with the designer to find out more about her inspirations and creative process.
Can you tell me a bit about the inspiration behind the name of This Ilk?
The name comes from an amazing Australian friend of mine named Julia who loved the word “ilk”, and when I found out it meant “of a same class or kind”, it just seemed like a perfect name for my line.
Your designs are the perfect combination of bold and delicate. What inspired you to use lace so prominently in your pieces?
A few things… first of all I misinterpreted a picture of Edie Sedgwick wearing earrings I thought were made of fabric (but turned out to be plastic) and I went to replicate them and found lace to be the closest I could come to the shape I wanted. After the initial pieces, it occurred to me that there was no limit to size thanks to the weightlessness of the lace. It was a functionalist solution to statement earrings. The perfect material: luxurious with a touch of iridescence and dimension. After all, lace is kind of to textiles what gold is to metals and diamonds to rocks. Historically, when lace was only hand sewn, it was only worn by royalty or the very rich due to its price and rarity, just like other noble materials. The word necklace is derived from the word “lace” itself. All in all, it was a perfect coincidence with the rise of the lace trend. And finally, to tell you the truth I was never really fond of lace in the traditional sense. I am a bit of a modernist at heart so I find the beauty in lace within the more simple shapes I remove from larger formations. I also tend to choose geometric pieces which were a strong trend in the sixties. It became a challenge to find the right shapes for my projects.
Each one of your collections has a different name. What is the inspiration behind the titles, and are they the source of inspiration for each collection?
When I started I found that there seemed to be categories of lace that reminded me of certain styles, cultures or characters so I decided these personalities would be a way to organize my collections. Many of my designs are influenced by vintage statement jewellery; I have always been a fan of the sixties and so I loved the idea of associating the jewellery to some film or TV characters from the past. I also enjoy choosing characters that have cunning personalities that have left an impression on me.
Each one of your pieces is a veritable work of art; what is the creation process like for you?
It truly depends – sometimes the lace determines the design. Other times, the idea determines the lace I choose. I love sourcing my inspiration in all categories of design (fashion, graphic, product, and even architecture) as well as images and movies from the past. I have these little sketch books filled with good and bad ideas that take shape once in a while when I find the perfect materials. The first iteration I complete always gets me smiling when I try it on for the first time even if I have clearly imagined it beforehand. My own satisfaction is a big part of what drives me. Most of the time, I don’t hold back even if the design is far too complicated or too long to replicate again and again. Sometimes I only have three [pieces] of one design, which is very costly considering I go through the process of making a sample [which] I keep, photographing it, listing it, etc. I follow my heart and creative energies.
Your pieces range from modernist, avant-garde, sixties and even Victorian – styles which really evoke your background and diverse range of interests. What sort of art or films inspire your work?
I love Pop Art and I love contrast. I tend to find beauty in most forms of art. Some of my favourite films include Ciao!, Manhattan, Qui êtes-vous, Polly Magoo?, The Fifth Element, Help!, Yellow Submarine, Aeon Flux, Romeo & Juliet and the list goes on. I also enjoy the old James Bonds… and anything with a beach. I have collected art and jewellery from my travels, [and] the whole beach culture fascinates me. Part of me wants to be a bum on an island somewhere…
How have your designs evolved since starting This Ilk?
I believe my designs are more and more complex and varied. I have started dip-dyeing my lace and colouring bits and parts of it, playing with the weight of the lace and chains, which affects the way pieces fall, [and] exploring the basic concept of wearable jewellery, etc. I get bored with things I have seen before or too much – I always try to evolve, change and surprise. I also have learned to appreciate figurative lace and incorporate it into jewellery.
Out of all your creations which is your most cherished?
Oh, I have a hard time with that question… I love it all! But I can’t see myself replying anything other than the ‘Octopussy Octopus’ earrings. They were my first love, then came my ultimate body jewellery piece, the “I am not a vest, I am jewellery” – and now I just can’t tell anymore.
